Prediction of a nail polish colour applied on a nail

Objective: The colour of a nail polish varies according to the nail on which it is applied. The objective of this study was to predict the colour of the nail polish on a given nail and to study how the colour varies depending on the nail polish thickness. Methods: Six nail polishes were applied in one, two and three layers on the nails of one subject, thus forming eighteen samples. The spectral reflectances of the eighteen nail polishes applied on the nails with different thicknesses were obtained by spectrophotometry. The spectral reflectances of the nails without polish were also measured using the same technique. The thicknesses of nail polishes were measured by high-definition optical coherence tomography (HD-OCT). Then, to determine the physical parameters of the nail polish itself, we applied the six nail polishes on an opacity drawdown chart and we measured the spectral reflectance and the thickness of each patch using spectrophotometry and HD-OCT, respectively. The Kubelka–Munk theory was used to get the predicted spectral reflectance of the nail polish applied on the nail according to the polish thickness by knowing the parameter of the polish itself and the spectral reflectance of the nail. The predicted spectral reflectances were finally compared with those measured directly on the nails. Results: The predicted spectral reflectances were rather close to measured ones. Consequently, knowing the colour of the nail without polish and the optical parameters of the nail polish itself, we can estimate the colour of the nail polish applied on the nail depending on its thickness. Conclusion: Our study showed that the Kubelka–Munk theory can be used to predict the nail polish colour. The ability to predict the real colour of a nail polish applied on a nail could help a nail polish manufacturer to improve his polish formulae in order to obtain a precise colour. © 2017 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie