BIO-SUSTAINABLE COSMETICS. RAW MATERIALS and TECHNOLOGIES

Given the sector's growing attention in natural products, the research concerns raw materials of cosmetic interest with the desired properties, but also capable of providing the right performance and texture to the product in the perspective of effectiveness and consumer safety. The current concept of what was previously called "green" is now greatly expanded, in fact we constantly talk about "sustainability". This term no longer refers to the obtaining of raw materials or "eco-friendly" systems but also to social and economic sustainability. Therefore sustainable development presents itself in three dimensions, environmental, economic and social which in some aspects intersect each other. The common thread of the research is therefore the study and analysis of the results obtainable in a bio-sustainable cosmetic product made up of suitable raw materials. The interest in sun protection, in natural make up products with good texture characteristics and cosmetic functionality for use in both skin care and hair care products have made the study and investigation of SPF boosters, graphene and rice derivatives interesting. Graphene is an agent with various properties and therefore very interesting to investigate and rice derivatives known for millennia for their use in cosmetics but not always investigated in all facets of their scientific potential. Therefore the research can be divided into three sections:  Section 1: SPF Booster Nowadays sun filters are on increasingly discussion topic with regard to their safety for human health and to their environmental impact. The use of SPF booster substances represents a strategy to reduce the concentration of UV filters in sunscreen products. This allows to obtained safer and environmental friendly products. This research was focused on the use of lipoamino acid alkyl esters as SPF boosters in a wide range of cosmetic formulations (O/W and W/O emulsions, oil dispersions, sun oils and lip balm) containing chemical and/or physical UV filters. The lipoamino acid alkyl esters were obtained through a green method by microwave irradiation using bio-sustainable raw materials such as: glycine ethyl ester and vegetable oils (olive oil and hemp seed oils). The products obtained are natural, free of organic solvents and with a good toxicological profile. The in vitro SPF results highlighted that, in all formulations tested, the presence of the boosters shows an increase in the SPF value.  Section 2: Research on the applications of graphene in the cosmetic field Graphene is an allotropic form of carbon, obtained from graphite consisting of a single layer of carbon atoms arranged in a hexagonal lattice nanostructure. It is a product free from harmful chemical substances and it is generally classified as an ecofriendly product. The research was focused on the development of innovative bio- and eco-sustainable cosmetic products on a natural basis that are highly performing and safe. In particular the study concerned the application of graphene in makeup compositions (eyes, skin and lips) and hair products. In all products the presence of graphene determined an improvement of their characteristics. In eye makeup products are provide with optimal features for volumizing, lengthening of eyelashes, for definition and filling of the eyebrows, and for long-lasting and high definition effects. The face makeup compositions obtained show good spreadability, long-lasting, shining and nude effects on the skin. The lip products show good rheological, physical, functional and sensorial properties. The face and lip products have good photoprotective capacity and graphene has SPF boosting properties. The hair products containing graphene provide a significant protective and coloring effect. Graphene adheres to the hair only superficially, it is easily and totally removable after washing without altering the original color.  Section 3: Rice derivatives in the Hair Care sector The aim of the research was the evaluation of the protective and restructuring efficacy on the hair of some rice derivatives (Rice Germ Oil PRO-15, Rice Germ Oil GX-N, Riceterol esters and Ferulic Acid) included in hair care products (conditioner/mask). The evaluation was performed on virgin hair and on hair damaged by bleaching, UV irradiation and thermal stress, applying the following techniques: FT-IR, SEM, Stress-strain test, Polarized light microscopy analysis and protein loss determination. The active ingredients showed good efficacy in improving the surface and mechanical properties and the photoprotection on the hair. In particular, Rice Germ Oil GX-N has shown very interesting and protective properties in all types of treatment. In the three sectors indicated, a common property of photoprotection can be highlighted.